Pablo Neruda's first house was built just past the dunes in Isla Negra (neither an island nor black). We visited yesterday to complete my Neruda pilgrimage. Our other major stop yesterday was to an amazing Italian restaurant. I had duck ravioli in a port and plum sauce. I think if we had gone there our first night here, we might have returned for all the others! Anyway, we're off this morning for our last stop- Viña del Mar. Monday afternoon we return to Peru. 
i almost forgot that i've been there! i lived in valparaiso for a bit during college and loved it! glad ya'll are having fun!